
Free granny square hat pattern · one adult size, band about 19 1/2 in around · worsted yarn in rust, sage and cream, US H-8 hook.
This granny square hat is a crochet beanie pattern built from 4 classic granny squares. Each square has a rust or sage center and 2 cream rounds; joined into a ring, they make the band of the hat.
You close the top with cream rounds of double crochet that decrease to 8 stitches into a dome, cinch them, and add a ridged brim of back-loop single crochet on the other edge. Every round of the square, the crown and the brim was checked by our stitch simulator.

- Finished size
- One adult size: band about 19 1/2 in around, for a head of about 21-22 in; about 8 5/8 to 8 3/4 in tall, with a crown dome of about 2 3/8 in (estimated)
- Yarn
- Worsted weight (#4): about 15 yd rust, 15 yd sage, 125 yd cream (estimated, with a 30 % margin)
- Hook
- US H-8 (5.0 mm)
- Gauge
- Suggested only: one 4-round square = about 4 7/8 in from side to side
- Squares
- 4: 2 rust centers, 2 sage centers
- Time
- About 4 to 6 hours: 4 squares, 4 seams, the crown, the brim and about 28 ends to weave in (estimated, not timed)
- Skills
- ch, sl st, sc, dc, sc2tog, dc2tog, sc in the back loop, joining squares with a slip-stitch seam

✓ CookZya original design · Stitch counts checked round by round — Stitch counts checked round by round by our simulator. This pattern has not been crocheted and swatched by a person: size, yarn and time are estimates, and your hat will differ a little.
Materials
- Color R — rust, about 15 yd
- Color S — sage green, about 15 yd
- Color W — cream, about 125 yd
- Yarn needle, scissors, stitch marker.
Notes
- US crochet terms. ch = chain, sl st = slip stitch, sc = single crochet, dc = double crochet, sp = space, st(s) = stitch(es), rep = repeat, Rnd = round, sc2tog = single crochet 2 together, dc2tog = double crochet 2 together.
- Magic ring: wrap the yarn twice around two fingers, insert the hook under the strands, pull up a loop and ch 1 to lock it (this ch 1 does not count). Prefer a chain ring? Ch 4, sl st in the first ch.
- Ch 3 (counts as a dc): the 3 chains at the start of a round stand in for the first dc; you join in the top (3rd chain) of it.
- Sc2tog: insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
- Back loop only: insert the hook under the back strand of the stitch only; it makes the ridges of the brim.
- Dc2tog: [yarn over, insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops] twice, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
- Block the 4 squares to the same size before joining: pin each to the size of your test square (about 4 7/8 in with the US H-8 hook), mist and let dry.
- Fit: measure the head around the forehead. Make one square first: with the US H-8 hook it should measure about 4 7/8 in. For a head of about 22-23 in, try a US I-9 (5.5 mm) hook; for about 20-21 in, a US 7 (4.5 mm). After joining the ring, slip it on: it should go over your head with a light stretch. (Estimates: your yarn and tension decide.) For a stretchier brim, go up a hook size for the brim only.
Granny square hat charts and plans




Granny square
Make 4 squares: 2 with rust centers and 2 with sage centers. Right side facing you; you never turn.
- With rust or sage (2 squares of each), make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as the first dc), 2 dc in the ring, ch 2. *3 dc in the ring, ch 2; rep from * 2 more times. Pull the tail to close the ring. Join with sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 (12 dc in 4 groups, 4 ch-2 corner sps). 12 dc, 4 ch-2 sps
- Sl st in each of next 2 dc and in the next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as a dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same sp, ch 1 (it goes over the 3 dc of Rnd 1), *(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from * 2 more times. Join with sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 (24 dc in 8 groups, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 4 ch-1 sps). Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail. 24 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 4 ch-1 sps
- Join cream with sl st in any ch-2 corner sp. Ch 3 (counts as a dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same sp, ch 1, *3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from * 2 more times. Last side: 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Join with sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 (36 dc in 12 groups, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 8 ch-1 sps). 36 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 8 ch-1 sps
- Sl st in each of next 2 dc and in the next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as a dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same sp, ch 1, *[3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 2 times, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from * 2 more times. Last side: [3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 2 times. Join with sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 (48 dc in 16 groups, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 12 ch-1 sps). Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail. 48 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 12 ch-1 sps
Crown
First block and join the 4 squares into a ring (see How to join the squares below), then work the crown in cream.
- With the right side of the ring facing you, join cream with sl st in the corner sp just after any seam on one edge of the ring (this edge becomes the top). Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), *sc in the corner sp, sc in each of next 3 dc, [sc in the next ch-1 sp, sc in each of next 3 dc] 3 times, sc in the next corner sp (17 sc for this square); rep from * across the other 3 squares. Join with sl st in the first sc (68 sc). 68 sc
- Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), *dc in each of next 15 sts, dc2tog; rep from * 3 more times. Join with sl st in the first dc (64 dc). 64 dc
- Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), *dc in each of next 6 sts, dc2tog; rep from * 7 more times. Join with sl st in the first dc (56 dc). 56 dc
- Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), *dc in each of next 5 sts, dc2tog; rep from * 7 more times. Join with sl st in the first dc (48 dc). 48 dc
- Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), *dc in each of next 4 sts, dc2tog; rep from * 7 more times. Join with sl st in the first dc (40 dc). 40 dc
- Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), *dc in each of next 3 sts, dc2tog; rep from * 7 more times. Join with sl st in the first dc (32 dc). 32 dc
- Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), *dc in each of next 2 sts, dc2tog; rep from * 7 more times. Join with sl st in the first dc (24 dc). 24 dc
- Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), *dc in next st, dc2tog; rep from * 7 more times. Join with sl st in the first dc (16 dc). 16 dc
- Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), *dc2tog; rep from * 7 more times. Join with sl st in the first dc (8 dc). Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch tail. Thread it on a yarn needle, weave it through the front loops of the last 8 sts, pull tight to close the top and secure on the inside. 8 dc
Brim
On the other edge of the band, in cream. Working in the back loop only makes a ridged brim.
- Turn the hat upside down. With the right side facing you, join cream with sl st in the corner sp just after any seam on the bottom edge of the band. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), *sc in the corner sp, sc in each of next 3 dc, [sc in the next ch-1 sp, sc in each of next 3 dc] 3 times, sc in the next corner sp (17 sc for this square); rep from * across the other 3 squares. Join with sl st in the first sc (68 sc). 68 sc
- Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), working in the back loop only (the sc2tog too): *sc in each of next 32 sts, sc2tog; rep from * once more. Join with sl st in the first sc (66 sc). 66 sc
- Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in the back loop only of each st around. Join with sl st in the first sc (66 sc). 66 sc
- Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in the back loop only of each st around. Join with sl st in the first sc (66 sc). 66 sc
- Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in the back loop only of each st around. Join with sl st in the first sc (66 sc). 66 sc
- Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in the back loop only of each st around. Join with sl st in the first sc (66 sc). Fasten off and weave in the ends. 66 sc
How to join the squares

1 Block the squares
2 Lay out the squares
3 Join them into a strip
4 Close the ring
5 Crown, then brim
Finishing
Weave in all the ends on the inside. Optional: add a cream or rust pom-pom on top (about 3 in across).
Design notes
- Each square edge gives 17 places for a stitch; 4 squares give 68 sts around. The crown decreases 4 sts in Rnd 2, then 8 sts every round down to 8; dc rounds are tall, so the top rises into a dome instead of lying flat.
- The brim decreases from 68 to 66 sts in its 2nd round, so it sits a little snugger than the band.
- Rnd 1 of the crown counts as part of the dome; the height range comes from how tall your sc rounds are.
Tips
- Make all 4 squares first and check that they measure the same.
- Put a stitch marker in the first sc of each crown round: decreases are easy to lose.
- Try the hat on before the brim: you can add or remove brim rounds to change the length.
- For a stretchier brim, work it with a hook one size bigger.
Common mistakes
- Working the crown decreases into the corner sps of the squares instead of into the stitches of the round below.
- Pulling the slip-stitch seams tight: the band puckers.
- Working the brim in both loops: it will not make ridges.
Make it your own
- One color for all the centers, or 4 different colors.
- Longer brim (a fold-up cuff): add more back-loop rounds of 66 sc; each adds about 1/4 in.
- Stripes: work 1 or 2 brim rounds in rust or sage.
- Pom-pom in rust or sage.
Care
- Follow the yarn label; hand wash and dry flat keeps the shape.
More granny square patterns
- How to Crochet a Granny Square — new to granny squares? Start here, one picture per round
- Granny Square Christmas Stocking — another small granny square project for the holidays
- Granny Square Blanket Size Chart — how big a granny square gets, round by round
FAQ
How do you make a granny square hat?
Crochet 4 four-round granny squares, join them into a ring, work a cream crown on the top edge (1 sc round, then dc rounds decreasing from 64 to 8 stitches) and cinch it, then add a ridged brim of back-loop sc on the bottom edge.
What size is this granny square hat?
One adult size: the band is about 19 1/2 in around, for a head of about 21-22 in (an estimate: your tension decides).
How much yarn do I need?
About 15 yd of rust, 15 yd of sage and 125 yd of cream worsted weight yarn, estimates with a 30 % margin.
Can I sell the hats I make?
Yes, you may sell what you crochet. Please don't sell or repost the pattern; link to this page.
Copyright
© 2026 CookZya. Free for personal use: you may make and sell what you crochet. Please don't sell, copy or repost this pattern; link to it instead.