Easy Granny Square Blanket Pattern (Free, 3 Sizes)

AI-generated illustration, not a photo of a blanket made from this pattern. Differences from our pattern: the yarn looks chunkier than worsted, the centers show more than our 4 colors (with an extra pale sage and a deeper raspberry) and are not in diagonal stripes, and the border looks a little wider than our 2 rounds. The exact rounds, colors and layout are in the pattern below.

This easy granny square blanket pattern starts with one small square. You make it again and again, and little by little those squares turn into a whole cozy blanket. It is a free, original CookZya granny square blanket pattern, written for beginners, in three sizes: baby, throw and twin.

Every square uses only chains, slip stitches and double crochet, worked in little groups of three. If you can make a chain and a double crochet, you can make this blanket, and each stitch is explained the first time it shows up. The rounds are short, so you see progress fast: one square takes about 20 minutes, estimated, once you know it.

Here is the plan: make the squares (5 rounds, about 6 in each), join them with a slip stitch seam, then add a two-round border. You need worsted weight yarn in 5 colors and a US H-8 (5.0 mm) hook. Every round below was checked by our stitch simulator; the blanket has not been crochet-tested yet. Tick each round as you go — your progress stays saved in this browser.

Finished size: Baby about 31 x 37 in, throw about 49 x 61 in, twin about 67 x 91 in (approximate)
Level: Easy — beginner. You need ch, sl st and dc, all explained below
Time: About 12 hours (baby), 31 hours (throw) or 63 hours (twin), estimated, not timed
Yarn: Worsted weight (#4), 5 colors: about 880 yd (baby), 2220 yd (throw) or 4510 yd (twin) in all
Hook: US H-8 (5.0 mm)
Gauge: Suggested only, not swatched: one square (5 rounds) = 6 in (15 cm) from side to side; Rnds 1-2 = about 2 3/4 in
Squares: 30 (baby), 80 (throw) or 165 (twin)

Sizes

Baby blanket — 5 x 6 squares, about 31 x 37 in

Yarn: Worsted weight (#4), 5 colors
Hook: US H-8 (5.0 mm)
Yarn needed: mustard yellow 90 yd · dusty rose 120 yd · sage green 80 yd · soft teal 80 yd · cream 510 yd — about 880 yd in all (estimated, with a 20 % margin)
Finished size: about 31 x 37 in (79 x 94 cm), approximate
Check before seaming: 30 squares (5 across x 6 down): 8 mustard yellow, 8 dusty rose, 7 sage green, 7 soft teal. Border Rnd 1: 103 sc on each short edge, 124 sc on each long edge, 3 sc in each corner. About 12 hours in all, estimated.

Throw — 8 x 10 squares, about 49 x 61 in

Yarn: Worsted weight (#4), 5 colors
Hook: US H-8 (5.0 mm)
Yarn needed: mustard yellow 210 yd · dusty rose 260 yd · sage green 210 yd · soft teal 210 yd · cream 1330 yd — about 2220 yd in all (estimated, with a 20 % margin)
Finished size: about 49 x 61 in (124 x 155 cm), approximate
Check before seaming: 80 squares (8 across x 10 down): 20 mustard yellow, 20 dusty rose, 20 sage green, 20 soft teal. Border Rnd 1: 166 sc on each short edge, 208 sc on each long edge, 3 sc in each corner. About 31 hours in all, estimated.

Twin — 11 x 15 squares, about 67 x 91 in

Yarn: Worsted weight (#4), 5 colors
Hook: US H-8 (5.0 mm)
Yarn needed: mustard yellow 430 yd · dusty rose 500 yd · sage green 440 yd · soft teal 430 yd · cream 2710 yd — about 4510 yd in all (estimated, with a 20 % margin)
Finished size: about 67 x 91 in (170 x 231 cm), approximate
Check before seaming: 165 squares (11 across x 15 down): 41 mustard yellow, 41 dusty rose, 42 sage green, 41 soft teal. Border Rnd 1: 229 sc on each short edge, 313 sc on each long edge, 3 sc in each corner. About 63 hours in all, estimated.

✓ CookZya original design · Stitch counts checked row by row — shape and size not tested. All 11 rounds — the 5 rounds of the square and the 2 border rounds for each of the 3 sizes — were replayed by our stitch simulator, and a second reading made from the written text alone matched it stitch by stitch. This blanket has not been crochet-tested: your tension decides the final size.

Materials

Color A — mustard yellow, for the centers (Rnds 1-3) of 1 square in 4, about 90 / 210 / 430 yd
Color B — dusty rose, for the centers (Rnds 1-3) of 1 square in 4 and Border Rnd 2, about 120 / 260 / 500 yd
Color C — sage green, for the centers (Rnds 1-3) of 1 square in 4, about 80 / 210 / 440 yd
Color D — soft teal, for the centers (Rnds 1-3) of 1 square in 4, about 80 / 210 / 430 yd
Color E — cream, for Rnds 4-5 of every square, the joining and Border Rnd 1, about 510 / 1330 / 2710 yd
Yardage is given as baby / throw / twin. It is estimated from the stitch counts with a 20 % margin, for about 6 in squares.
Soft acrylic or an acrylic blend is easy to wash and kind to a beginner budget; cotton makes a cooler, heavier blanket.
US H-8 (5.0 mm) hook, yarn needle, scissors, a few stitch markers.

Notes

US crochet terms. ch = chain, sl st = slip stitch, dc = double crochet, sc = single crochet, sp = space, st(s) = stitch(es), rep = repeat, Rnd = round.
Chain (ch): yarn over and pull the yarn through the loop on your hook. A ch-2 sp or ch-1 sp is the little hole under 2 or 1 chains: you work into the hole, not into the chains.
Double crochet (dc): yarn over, insert the hook, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on the hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops.
Slip stitch (sl st): insert the hook, yarn over and pull the loop through the stitch and the loop on your hook in one go. It closes a round, it moves you to the next corner without adding height, and it joins the squares.
Magic ring: wrap the yarn twice around two fingers, insert the hook under the strands, pull up a loop and ch 1. Work Rnd 1 over the ring, then pull the tail to close the hole.
Ch 3 (counts as a dc): the 3 chains at the start of a round stand in for the first dc. Count them as a dc, and close the round with a sl st in the top of these 3 chains.
A group is 3 dc worked in the same space. A corner is (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in one ch-2 sp. Each round adds one more group on every side.
*…; rep from * 2 more times means: do the part after the * 3 times in all. [ ] 2 times means: do what is inside the brackets 2 times.
Joining a new color: make a slip knot on your hook, insert the hook in the space, yarn over and pull through the space and the slip knot.
All rounds are worked with the right side (the front) facing you: you never turn the square.

How the granny square blanket is built

One square, drawn to the suggested gauge: every block is a group of 3 dc and the dots are the ch-2 corners — a computer drawing, not a photo.

Baby size: 30 squares, about 31 x 37 in — a computer drawing.

Throw size: 80 squares, about 49 x 61 in — a computer drawing.

Twin size: 165 squares, about 67 x 91 in — a computer drawing.

Granny square

Make 30 squares for the baby size, 80 for the throw or 165 for the twin. Rnds 1-3 are in one center color (mustard, rose, sage or teal, see the layout for how many of each), Rnds 4-5 are in cream. You work every group into a space, never into a stitch, which makes this square very forgiving.

Rnd 1 With a center color, make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as the first dc), 2 dc in the ring, ch 2, *3 dc in the ring, ch 2; rep from * 2 more times. Pull the tail to close the ring. Join with sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 (12 dc in 4 groups, 4 ch-2 corner sps). 12 dc, 4 ch-2 sps
Rnd 2 Sl st in each of the next 2 dc and in the next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as a dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same ch-2 sp: this is your first corner. Ch 1, *(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from * 2 more times. Join with sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 (24 dc in 8 groups, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 4 ch-1 sps). 24 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 4 ch-1 sps
Rnd 3 Sl st in each of the next 2 dc and in the next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as a dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same ch-2 sp: this is your first corner. Ch 1, *3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from * 2 more times. 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Join with sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 (36 dc in 12 groups, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 8 ch-1 sps). Fasten off the center color. 36 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 8 ch-1 sps
Rnd 4 Join cream with sl st in any ch-2 corner sp. Ch 3 (counts as a dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same sp: this is your first corner. Ch 1, *[3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 2 times, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from * 2 more times. [3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 2 times. Join with sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 (48 dc in 16 groups, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 12 ch-1 sps). 48 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 12 ch-1 sps
Rnd 5 Sl st in each of the next 2 dc and in the next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as a dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same ch-2 sp: this is your first corner. Ch 1, *[3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 3 times, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from * 2 more times. [3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 3 times. Join with sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 (60 dc in 20 groups, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 16 ch-1 sps). Fasten off, leaving a 6 in tail. 60 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 16 ch-1 sps

Border (after joining)

Join all your squares first: the joining steps come right after these 2 rounds. Then work the border all the way around the blanket. The total stitch count for each size is at the end of each round.

Rnd 1 With the right side facing you, join cream with sl st in the ch-2 corner sp at the top right corner of the blanket; you will work first along the top edge, which is a short edge. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), 3 sc in the same corner sp. *Work along the edge to the next corner of the blanket: sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp; at a seam, 1 sc in each of the 2 ch-2 corner sps (one on each side) and nothing in the seam itself; then 3 sc in the corner sp of the blanket; rep from * 2 more times (you work a short edge, a long edge, a short edge, each followed by a corner). Work along the last long edge in the same way. Join with sl st in the first sc. The number of sc on each short and long edge is in the Sizes cards. Fasten off cream. Baby 466 sc · Throw 760 sc · Twin 1096 sc
Rnd 2 Join dusty rose with sl st in the first sc of Rnd 1 (the sc where Rnd 1 was joined). Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in the same st, 3 sc in the next st (the center sc of the corner). *Sc in each st up to the center sc of the next corner, 3 sc in the center sc; rep from * 2 more times. Sc in each st to the end. Join with sl st in the first sc: 8 sc more than Rnd 1. Fasten off. Baby 474 sc · Throw 768 sc · Twin 1104 sc

How to join the squares

1 Lay out your squares

Lay all your squares right side up on the floor or a bed, in rows, as in the layout diagram for your size. The 4 center colors run in diagonal stripes. Move them around until you love it, then take a photo so you remember the order.

2 Join the columns

Step 2: 21 sl st per square edge — a computer drawing, not a photo.

Pick up the first 2 squares of the top row and hold them right sides together (the fronts touching), edges even. With cream, make a slip knot on your hook. Work 1 sl st through both corner sps, then 1 sl st through each pair of matching stitches: 15 dc and 4 ch-1 sps, each time going through the front square and the back square. End with 1 sl st through both corner sps: 21 sl st. Do not cut the yarn: pick up the next 2 squares of the same 2 columns, and go on the same way down to the bottom row. Cut the yarn. Join every pair of columns like this (4, 7, 10 long seams for the baby, throw and twin sizes).

3 Join the rows

Now join the rows in the same way: fold row 1 onto row 2, right sides together, and work 21 sl st along each square, all the way across. Where you cross an earlier seam, nothing changes: each square still gets 21 sl st, the last one through the 2 corner sps of the squares that end and the next one through the 2 corner sps of the next 2 squares; carry on (5, 9, 14 long seams for the baby, throw and twin sizes). Keep every sl st loose so the seams stay as stretchy as the squares.

4 Add the border

Turn the blanket right side up and work Border Rnds 1 and 2 (above) all the way around it.

5 Weave in the ends

Thread each tail on a yarn needle and weave it through 2 or 3 inches of stitches of the same color, on the wrong side, then back the other way. Trim close.

6 Block the blanket

Lay the blanket flat on towels, pat it into shape (each square about 6 in), mist it with water and let it dry. Blocking makes the squares sit straight and the seams lie flat.

Finishing

Check that every end is woven in and every seam is closed. Wash and dry the blanket as the yarn label says before you gift it: a first wash softens the stitches.

Design notes

Each round adds one group of 3 dc on every side: Rnd n has n groups per side, so Rnd 5 ends with 60 dc.
A finished side has 15 dc and 4 ch-1 sps between 2 corner sps: 21 places for a stitch. That is why the join uses 21 sl st and the border 21 sc per square edge.
The cream frame (Rnds 4-5) on every square ties any mix of center colors together.
Sizes are the nearest whole number of squares to 30 x 36 in (baby), 50 x 60 in (throw) and 66 x 90 in (twin), plus about 1/2 in of border on each side.

Beginner tips for an easy granny square blanket

Make one test square first and measure it. Bigger than 6 1/4 in? Try a US G-6 (4.0 mm) hook. Smaller than 5 3/4 in? Try a US I-9 (5.5 mm).
Count the groups after each round: Rnd 1 has 4, Rnd 2 has 8, Rnd 3 has 12, Rnd 4 has 16, Rnd 5 has 20.
Put a stitch marker in the top of the beginning ch-3: it shows you exactly where to join.
Crochet over the tail of the new color for the first few dc: fewer ends to weave in later.
Weave in the ends of each square as soon as it is done: a pile of finished squares feels great.
Keep your squares in a bag sorted by center color, so the layout is quick.

Common mistakes

Working a group into the top of a stitch instead of into the space: the square grows crooked.
Forgetting the ch 1 between groups: the square cups instead of lying flat.
Forgetting the ch 2 at a corner: the square pulls into a dome.
Joining with the wrong sides together: the seam ridge ends up on the front.
Pulling the joining sl st tight: the seams pucker. Keep them loose.

Make it your own

Colors as written: mustard, dusty rose, sage and soft teal centers with cream frames — cheerful and classic.
Soft baby: pale pink, butter yellow, mint and baby blue centers with white frames.
Earthy boho: terracotta, mustard, olive and rust centers with oatmeal frames.
Scrappy: use up leftovers for the centers and keep every frame cream, so it all still matches.
Calm and modern: every center in navy or charcoal, every frame in white.
Any size: each extra square adds about 6 in. One square takes about 9 yd of a center color and 12 yd of cream, estimated.

Care

Follow the care label of your yarn. Most acrylic yarn can go in the washing machine on a gentle cycle with cool water.
Dry flat, or tumble dry on low if the label allows it.
Never iron acrylic: the heat flattens it for good.

More crochet patterns for your table

Easy Crochet Pumpkin — another easy beginner project in worsted yarn, in three sizes
Crochet Pumpkin Coaster — a quick little project to use up your leftover yarn
Autumn Leaves Table Runner — when you are ready for a bigger color project
Tulip Table Runner — a cheerful flower runner in simple single crochet

FAQ

Is this granny square blanket pattern good for beginners?

Yes. It uses only 3 stitches: chain, slip stitch and double crochet, all explained on this page. Each square is 5 short rounds, and you always work into the spaces, which is easier than working into stitches.

How many granny squares do I need for a blanket?

With 6 in squares, you need 30 squares for a baby blanket (5 x 6), 80 for a throw (8 x 10) and 165 for a twin blanket (11 x 15).

How big is one granny square in this pattern?

About 6 in (15 cm) from side to side after 5 rounds, with worsted weight yarn and a US H-8 (5.0 mm) hook. This is a suggested gauge: measure your first square before you make the rest.

How much yarn do I need for a granny square blanket?

About 880 yd for the baby size, 2220 yd for the throw and 4510 yd for the twin, in worsted weight yarn. A little more than half of it is cream. These are estimates with a 20 % margin; the yardage for each color is in the Sizes cards.

What is the easiest way to join granny squares?

A slip stitch join. Hold 2 squares right sides together and work 21 slip stitches through both edges: 1 in each corner space, 1 in each dc and 1 in each ch-1 space. You join whole columns, then whole rows, without cutting the yarn after every square.

How long does it take to crochet a granny square blanket?

About 12 hours for the baby size, 31 hours for the throw and 63 hours for the twin, estimated: about 20 minutes per square, plus the joining and the border.

Can I make the blanket bigger or smaller?

Yes. Add or remove whole squares: each one adds about 6 in. Keep the same number of squares in every row, then work the border the same way; it fits any number of squares.

Can I sell the blankets I make?

Yes, you may sell the blankets you crochet yourself. Please don't sell or repost the pattern; link to this page instead.

Easy Granny Square Blanket Pattern for Beginners (Free, 3 Sizes)